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Casting HO Resin Bodies For Fun and Profit


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This will detail the method and materials used for a technique known as "slosh" or "slush" casting. It basically involves making a silicone mold and sloshing resin around in that mold as it hardens. It's easy to do and requires no special equipment or knowledge.

Follow the steps and look at the photos, you'll be casting in no time.

Materials:

  • MOLD - 2 part RTV silicone.......I use Alumilite "Quick Set"
  • BODY - 2 part casting resin......I use Vagabond "ModelCast 36XXX"
  • Note: *Alumilite* casting kit (contains both silicone & resin)
    *MicroMark* casting kit (contains both silicone & resin)

Tools:

  • 3 ounce paper cup for mixing and pouring
  • Some sort of sheet plastic for the mold base
  • Masking or other type tape for the mold sides
  • .020" brass rod for picking out bubbles
  • 1/4"x.020" brass strip to use as a spatula
  • Spoon for measuring out the components

Making The Mold:

  • We'll use a vintage Eldon Ferrari as an example. Clean the body up and remove any extras like windows.
  • Fill the body with modeling clay and extend it 1/2" below lower panel line.
  • Carve the clay from the wheel wells and underside of the panels, about 1/8" in from the edge to form a nice clean lip there.
  • Place this clayside-down on a flat sheet of plastic.
  • Make walls around this sheet with masking tape. This is what will be holding the silicone in, so make certain there is a good seal.
  • Mix the silicone and pour it in the mold. As you are pouring, tilt the mold around a little to get the silicone distributed well and avoid trapping bubbles.
    Note: I mix in 5 drops of baby oil for every spoonful of silicone base material, this makes a more pliable mold.
  • Let the silicone cure whatever amount of time the instructions say.
  • Once the silicone has cured, remove the masking tape and pull the base off.
  • Gently remove the body master from the mold.


Casting The Resin:

  • Make sure the mold has no debris in it.
  • Mix the resin per it's instructions and pour into mold.
  • Use the brass rod to pick out air bubbles....you may need to do a test casting to find all the spots in the mold that will tend to trap them.
  • Slosh the mix around all the inside of the mold. Use the brass spatula to move the resin into tough spots. Note: It is important to first get all of the inside of the mold coated with a thin layer of resin to insure a good casting.
  • Pick up the mold and it tilt back and forth allowing the resin to move around inside it. Keeping the resin moving will retard it's curing time...allowing you to slosh it around evenly.
  • When the resin moves like "honey", concentrate it on the front and back portions of the mold.
  • When it starts to move like "molasses", tilt the mold so the resin flows to one side of it, then lay the mold on that side and allow the resin to cure.
  • Once it cures, repeat steps 2 through 7 and then lay the mold on it's opposite side.
  • When the resin has fully cured, gently spread the mold sides to loosen the body and then remove the body from the mold.


Mounting The Body:

  • Trim excess resin from body and radius wheel wells.
  • Cut two lengths of styrene tubing that has an ID sufficient to screw in a #2 self-tapping T-Jet mounting screw.
  • Put screws in these pieces of tubing to form threads, then remove.
  • Mount the tubing pieces to a T-Jet chassis with the screws.
  • Try the body over the tubes and trim if needed.
  • Keep trimming the tubes until the body is at desired ride height.
  • Place a drop of CyanoAcrylate glue on each tube end and place the body on the chassis. Let the glue cure.
  • Remove the body and reinforce the glue joints with a fillet of CyanoAcrylate glue for strength.
  • Paint and detail as desired.



The raw mold


Another shot


Yet another


What comes out


The inside story


The finished product